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Bornholm Island

Bornholm Map.jpg

Women's

Overview

Early Adoption of Full Dresses

Dresses, as opposed to a bodice-and-skirt, gained popularity early on. They occasionally had ham-sleeves or puff-sleeves, which was uncommon in other regions.

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The Bornholm folk costume is famous for its three distinctive types of headgear:

a.Nølle: Derived from a hairstyle for upper-class French women, this headgear features silk flowers and stiffened white fabric or lace that was pleated and stiffened, sometimes into "pipes" (see images below). The nølle featured red silk flowers for celebrations and bIack ones for mourning. In some respects, the nølle is similar to the Fanø wedding dress headgear. ​​​

b. "Tied on Itself" (på-sig-bund-det): quite distinctive as it goes quite far down the forehead. Many pins were used to secure the embroidered silk or cotton bonnet to the head, and it was a rather complicated matter to put it on. It had a white ribbon under the chin. Over the bonnet sat tulle or lace.

c. Hat å Houa (hat og hawa): the rarest Bornholm headgear. The National Museum's Esther Grølsted describes it as follows: "Linen, the tip of which goes down to the forehead, is bare at the temples and curls down around the ears. On top of that, the headdress has a small cardboard cap covered with fabric and decorated with silk ribbons, but no chinstrap. It can be seen here.

Minna Kragelund describes it as a "three-piece cap, placed on the outside of a rigid cardboard form. Silk ribbons lined the edges. This headgear was worn by confirmation candidates and young girls.

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Bornholm Island Party Costume
from "Danske Folke Dragter" by Nanna Gandil, 1972

The Bornholm party costume above has the following characteristics:

a. the dress has short puffed sleeves and could be made of muslin, cotton or silk,

b. the black gloves were home knitted from silk yarn,

c. the headgear, or nølle, was white and stiffened, standing out from the head like a fan (not unlike Thy's headgear). It was decorated with silk flowers (red for celebration, black for mourning). Some literature (i.e., Nanna Gandil, Ellen Andersen) suggests that the "flowers" were homemade from silk ribbons. If a woman was unable to make one for herself, a nølle headdress could be purchased from a skilled seamstress. Reportedly, a nølle was quite expensive and only worn by wealthier women. Local women could borrow or rent them in the 1800s if they were to sit for a photograph. A simpler hat was used on a daily basis (see below).

d. a silk robe/capeA well-dressed Bornholm wife had to have as many as three silk robes/capes:

     i. red for parties,

     ii. blue for Sunday use, and

     iii. black for mourning.​

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Bornholm Costume 1850-1855 with På Sig Bundet headgear
from "Danske Folke Dragter" by Nanna Gandil, 1972

This costume is more urban and unlike most other Danish folk costumes. Reportely, that is because many Bornholm farms were located within the limits of Bornholm's market towns.

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The dress pattern is printed. The dress sleeves end at the elbow and is continued with a loose, white undersleeve containing embroidery. The shoulder scarf is made of white tulle and is single-layered. The apron is plum-colored or black. 

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The bonnet was called "Tied on Itself" (På Sig Bundet), and is quite distinctive as it goes quite far down the forehead. Many pins were used to secure the bonnet to the head, and it was a rather complicated matter to put it on.

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På Sig Bundet

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På Sig Bundet headgear.

Absolutely lovely! Graciously worn for all to enjoy.

Gudhjem, Bornholm July 2026

Image Credit: Bornholm Folk Dancers

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På Sig Bundet headgear
Dress of light wool. Sewn-n half sleeves with lace cuffs. Apron of half-silk.
Image credit: "Folkedragter" by Minna Kragelund, 1978

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Image Credit: Licensed from Alamy

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Spotted in Struer, 17 July 2025

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Probable Bornholm Nølle

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På Sig Bundet (on right)

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In 1979, the predecessor organization to the Danish Folk Costume Society put on an exhibition, displaying the finest example of the Bornholm party costume. Here the nølle headgear can be seen.

Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

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Bornholm Kirkedragt (Church Costume) 1850-1860
from "Folkedragter i Danmark" by Ellen Andersen, 1952

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På Sig Bundet Headgear

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Whoever set this image up paid tremendous attention to detail, using correct Bornholm costumes!

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Note three of the women and the girl are wearing removable long gloves. The adult woman 3rd from right appears to be wearing the exact same plum-colored printed dress that is 2nd from the top on this webpage.

 

The woman on the far left's bonnet is called "Tied on Itself" (På Sig Bundet), and is quite distinctive as it goes quite far down the forehead. Many pins were used to secure the bonnet to the head, and it was a rather complicated matter to put it on.

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The woman on the far right is wearing the Hat å Houa (or Hat og Hawa) headgear, the rarest of them all! The giveaway - no chinstrap.

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Note how the man standing 3rd from left is wearing the unique Bornholm vest pattern. I believe the boy and the man-in-top-hat are wearing a horizontal-striped version of those unique colors.

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Bornholm 20a Hat og Hawa.jpg
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Hat å Houa (hat og hawa) headgear.

What a terrific example of this super-rare item! Generously worn for all to enjoy.

Gudhjem, Bornholm July 2026

Image Credit: Bornholm Folk Dancers

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This is the Hat å Houa (hat og hawa), which is the rarest of the three unique Bornholm headgears.

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Hat og Hawa headgear - the rarest of them all!
Dress is hvergarn (wool + linen). Scarf is half-silk. Apron is printed cotton. Long gloves of leather.
Image credit: "Folkedragter" by Minna Kragelund, 1978

Bornholm.jpg

Image Credit: Mikael Bjerregaard

Men's

There seem to be two men's vest patterns that are unique to Bornholm.

Vest Pattern 1

I am not aware of a vest pattern similar to this anywhere else on Denmark. The colors and the diagonal are distinctive.

Bornholm 13.jpg

Vest Pattern 2

Similar to Vest Pattern 1, but with horizontal stripes. Thus, a bit more conventional. Still, I've not seen this color pattern elsewhere.

Bornholm 21.jpg

A very sharp-looking vest indeed!

Image Credit: Bornholm Folk Dancers

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