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Sønderjylland Region, Jylland
Danish map, 1913
"Sønderjylland" has two meanings:
a. For purposes of folk costumes, it refers to the Duchy of Slesvig, which more or less ran from the Kongeå River in the north to the Eider River in the south.
b. For modern political purposes, refers to the southernmost region of modern-day Denmark (basically the upper half of the Duchy of Slesvig).
History (1460-Today)
In 1460, the Duchy of Slesvig fell under the control of the Danish King. The German language began to encroach on Danish, taking the Svansø/Svans Peninsula by 1780 and the Angeln/Angel peninsula between 1800-1840. Around 1830, a rise in nationalism caused Danes to refer to the Duchy of Slesvig as "Sønderjylland" (to imply that it belonged to Denmark). Germans instead referred to it as "Schleswig-Holstein" (to imply that the two regions were inseparable and a part of Germany).
Denmark lost the Duchy of Slesvig to Germany in the 1864 Second Schleswig War, along with the Duchies of Holstein and Saxe-Lauenburg.
In 1920, after Germany's defeat in WW1, a plebiscite was held in two areas of Slesvig. The northernmost voted to rejoin Denmark, resulting in the modern border.
Sønderjylland (Southern Jutland)
Regarding the folk costumes of Sønderjylland, the region's proximity to mainland Europe caused it to be exposed to more modern styles of dress. Thus, its traditional folk costumes turned "modern" or disappeared earlier that those from other regions.
Because Denmark controlled Sønderjylland during its folk costume era (1700-1800), and because Danish was widely spoken there, it is appropriate to include costumes from all of Sønderjylland (Duchy of Slesvig) on this website, even those costumes from the southern half (e.g. Ostenfeld, Dannevirke, Amrom, Føhr) which became part of Germany.
Sønderjylland Women's Costumes
Elements of the women's costume:
a. Headgear: burgundy-colored and distictive (see images below)
b. jacket: instead of a bodice and sweater ("nattrøje")
This is the most unique and distinctive telltale item for Sønderjylland. To my knowledge, it was not worn in other regions of Denmark.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
The burgundy headgear screams Sønderjylland. Note the lovely skirt pattern.
Sønderjylland's burgundy headgear strikes again!
The other hallmark item from Sønderjylland was a jacket (often in the color shown above) instead of a bodice-and-sweater.
Sønderjylland woman, 1790
What makes this costume, above, so different? The skirt and jacket are both made of COTTON! The cotton fabric then would have a glossy pattern printed on it. The apron and scarf shown are of cotton "moll" fabric, but some costumes had silk ones. The headgear consists of stiffened silk and a piece of linen on top. The scarf could be worn either tucked in (as shown above) or on top of the jacket. The costume above is a copy of an original held in a private collection.
Image credit: Licensed from Folkedragt.dk
Tønder County
In 1979, the predecessor organization to the Danish Folk Costume Society put on an exhibition, displaying the finest example of the Tønder costume. Note the distinctive burgundy-colored Sønderjylland headgear and skirt pattern.
In the early 1700s, Tønder was the central trading post for Sønderjylland's thriving lace industry. By 1860, Tønder lace had lost its dominance within the European market, allowing peasant women to buy it to accessorize their headgear.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Aabenraa County
In 1979, the predecessor organization to the Danish Folk Costume Society put on an exhibition, displaying the finest example of the Aabenraa costume.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Sønderborg
Sønderborg Dragt
Flensborg County
Flensborg, 1790
Image credit: Licensed from Folkedragt.dk
This is the skirt fabric of Flensborg, Slesvig (now called Flensburg, Schleswig). It is a town that today sits on the German side of the modern-day Danish-German border. Until 1864, it was under Danish control. Thus, its costume is arguably Danish.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Sønderjylland woman wearing distinctive Sønderjylland burgundy headgear and what looks like a Flensborg skirt
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
A real rarity in Danish folk costumes - the color yellow! Only Læsø Island's costume and the Fanø men's costume has anything comparable in hue.
Either of these fabric patterns are appropriate for a skirt from Flensborg, Slesvig
Dannevirke, Slesvig County
If you draw a line between the towns of Husum and Slesvig, the Low German language had replaced Danish up to that line by about 1800. The Dannevirke, a defensive line of fortifications first built by the Viking as early as 670AD, sits along that Husum-Slesvig line.
Ostenfeld, Husum County
Danish was spoken in Ostenfeld until about 1800, ultimately being replaced by Low German.
Sønderjylland Men's Costumes
Sønderjylland
Sønderjylland man, 1780
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Sønderjylland man, 1790
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Sønderjylland man, 1800
According to the Danish Folk Costume Society, this checkered pattern on drill fabric is one found throughout Denmark and is not specific to Sønderjylland.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Tønder County
In 1979, the predecessor organization to the Danish Folk Costume Society put on an exhibition, displaying the finest example of the Tønder men's costume.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Aabenraa County
In 1979, the predecessor organization to the Danish Folk Costume Society put on an exhibition, displaying the finest example of the Aabenraa men's costume. Note the signature leather trousers with side buttons.
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk
Aabenraa man, 1850
Image credit: Licensed from Folkedragt.dk
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