Læsø Island's party costume (festdragt) is quite possibly the fanciest and most beautiful of all Danish folk costumes. It is certainly like none other!

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Origins of the Læsø Folk Costume

The Læsø suit is laced and hooked, which shows that it has roots dating back to before the 14th century, when the buttonhole was introduced. On the other hand, the wool and silk damask fabrics used in the suit belong to the period after 1799, when the fear of buying and wearing such fabrics disappeared with the repeal of the "regulations concerning the dress of the estates." It was also at the end of the 18th century that the color blue became a favorite color for suits - and the fine silk fabrics and the beautiful suit silver were largely brought to Lsø by the island's sailors who sailed long distances.

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As legend has it, Queen Margaret I (1353-1412) was saved by Læsø islanders from a nearby shipwreck. In gratitude, she allowed the women of Læsø to wear a suit of the same cut as she herself wore.

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Regarding the costume, in 1934 there were only 4-5 complete costumes in existence. As of 2024, there are approximately 70 adult costumes, thanks to the tireless work of the Læsø Museum and the Læsø Folk Dance Association (Folkedanserforening). The latter owns 20 adult costumes (and 80 far less elaborate children's costumes which are not historically accurate). Another 50 adult costumes are privately owned. According to the Læsø Folk Dance Association, they are contemplating creating some new costumes, as their newest costumes were made in 1983 (by the expert hands of Kirsten Larsen).

 

Elements of the Costume

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a. Blouse ("Trøje"): The blouse is made of black silk, but was originally of black or brown velvet according to the Læsø Museum. It is the outermost layer. It has stiffeners underneath it, and typically has between two and six round brass or silver-gilded plates ("bråserne"). The blouse is closed with silver hooks.

 

Wealthy women had a larger number of metal plates on their blouse. These served only a decorative purpose. In an era before banks, the gilded metal represented a part of the family's saved capital, passed down through generations. The blouse comes to a point in front at the waist, which is rare among Danish folk costumes. Overall, the blouse bears a passing resemblance to the blouse of the black Amager "city suit."

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On Sundays, a black blouse would be worn that did not have any metal on it.

 

b. Headgear: One of most striking elements of this costume is the linen headgear (hvivklæde), looking like something out of "Lawrence of Arabia." The large white scarf (110cm x 110cm) has embroidery in the corners and Tønder lace at the edge. It is folded into a triangle, and the tips are crossed under the chin and attached to the back of the head with pins. The headgear could be used to almost completely cover the face in the event of blowing sand, which was not uncommon on Læsø Island.

 

For weddings and confirmations, silk "lashes" (17cm x 50cm) were attached at the top of the head and hung down in the back (see images below). Nowadays, the silk lashes are always worn, irrespective of occasion.

 

c. Apron: Black silk was used for married women; yellow-cream (or gold) silk was used for unmarried women. The use of the color yellow-cream is quite unusual among Danish folk costumes, seen only in the Fanø men's costume and rarely in Sønderjylland. Four silk ribbons hang down in the back. In addition, there is a silk ribbon at the bottom of the apron. According to the Læsø Museum, the apron should be just short enough that the skirt's silk band is visible.

 

d. Skirt: The skirt is typically made of wool or damask silk. It can best be seen from the rear, where it is pleated, as the apron wraps around 3/4 of the skirt. These days, the skirt is almost always blue, as that is the color favored by the Læsø Folk Dance Association. However, in the past, colors other than blue were used, such as red, green, purple and apricot. The skirt has a colorful, patterned silk band at the bottom.

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e. Shirt: The bottom layer is a long linen shirt (særk).

 

f. Bodice ("Snørelivet"): Above the shirt (særk) but underneath the black silk blouse is a sleeveless silk damask bodice with lace edges. It is closed with a silver chain which is pulled through the silver rings that line the front edges of the bodice (see detailed image below).

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g. Cap: Underneath the headgear is a small, gold-embriodered cap, tied under the chin with a wide silk ribbon.

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h. Stockings: Black stockings.

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i. Silver Belt: Until 1890, a silver belt was worn by the most affluent women (see one pictured below). In 1890, a missionary revival on the island prompted many women to give their silver to the church. Thus, the silver belt fell out of use.

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j. Scarf: On top of the shirt but underneath the front of the bodice is a silk scarf, worn around the neck. It is usually brightly colored and visible in-between the front edges of the bodice.