Please Enable JavaScript in your Browser to Visit this Site.

top of page

Rømø Island

Rømø Map.jpg

Rømø Women's Costumes

Origins

The Rømø everyday work costume reportedly originated in the Netherlands, and came to Ballum, Jutland in the 1700s. This distinctive costume was subsequently adopted by Rømø islanders and forgotten in Ballum. There are only a handful of depictions of the Rømø everyday work costume from the 1700s. Through the early part of the 1800s, it was the everyday work dress for women on the island.

Longevity

It was one of the longest-lasting folk costumes in ordinary, daily use in all of Denmark. Skovshoved and Fanø were the longest (1960s), with Amager probably second-longest (1930s) and Rømø probably third-longest (1920). In 1905, the Rømø costume was still worn by a dozen elderly women, but by 1920 it had completely disappeared from regular, everyday use on the island.

It has endured in festivals and through the important work of the Rømø Costume Friends Club (Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner).

When attending the 1996 Danish folk dancers convention, former Queen Margrethe II of Denmark chose to wear the lovely everyday costume of Rømø Island.

Rømø pastor Thade Petersen, writing in the Hjemdal newspaper in 1938, noted that there were three historical women's costumes on Rømø (festive, everyday, and church). Dansk Folkedragtforum makes note of a fourth (double-breasted), and Arkiv.dk informs of of a fifth (widow's). Dansk Folkedragtforum's well-researched scholarly documentation makes it clear that the festive costume doubled as a church costume. Therefore, those two are combined.

Rømø Women's Costumes

   a. Festive/Church costume (festdragt/kirkedragt) - It is believed that the festive costume also doubled as a church costume. For weddings, a bride wore a church costume with a special headpiece.

   b. Everyday work costume (daglige dragt) - this is the costume that has gone on to become one of Denmark's most famous, likely because it is not only stunning but also bright red (and therefore seeming more "Danish").

   c. Double-Breasted Blouse with "Pipes" (dobbeltradet trøje med piber) - an everyday costume made of cotton worn over the everyday work costume

   d. Widow's costume (enkedragt)

Acknowledgments

This author owes a tremendous debt of gratitude to Mary-Anna Wraae Grundt of the Rømø Historical Society and co-founder of the Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner for her insight and generosity in sharing her expertise. Additionally, I would like to thank Herle Nielsen, Dorte Petersen, Lars Westensee Hansen and the good folks at Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner. This page would not be what it is without all of their contributions and kindness.

Party/Church Costume
(festdragt/kirkedragt)

According to Dansk Folkedragtforum's "Photo Series for Rømødragt (1800-1860)," the party costume and church costume were separate outfits early on, and this author has made an effort to point out which is which from the images below. Subsequently, the church and fest costumes became interchangeable (i.e., you could wear either one to church or to a party).

 

These costumes were "presumably worn on top of the 'pi'," meaning they were thought to be worn over the everyday costume. However, some scholars suspect that the 'pi' was not always worn underneath, because many of the surviving festive costumes are not large enough to accommodate a 'pi' underneath them. Scholar M.C. Dahl writes in a 1906 academic journal article that there was a distinct church costume (klædning) that was exclusively worn to church and was worn over the "pi."

The Party/Church costume consists of:

a. Jacket (trøjer): Also called a "formak," it was thin and not homemade. No collar. Fabrics: worsted wool, half-silk or (rarely) silk. Colors: brown, green, blue or black. For holy communion, only black was worn. The back of the jacket has three stiffly pleated "pipes" (see images below) that show off the fine white lining inside them.

b. Jacket Closures: Closed with silver hooks. Dahl (1906) writes that the number of hooks may vary. However, Petersen (1903) writes "it was fastened in front with three large engraved silver buckles or hooks at the bottom, while three of the same kind higher up served only as decoration. From the top of the hooked hooks upwards, the "formak" stood so wide open that both the flowered insert under the "pi" as well as the "pi's" buttons and green border along the cutout were visible."

c. Skirt: thin, non-homemade. It matched the jacket in fabric and color.

d. Apron: optional, but usually none. Scholar Dahl writes in 1906 that no apron is worn.

e. Headgear: made of "linen and straw." For church services, the headdress is decorated at the front with white lace or a strip of stiffened linen (skraalin). [Dahl, 1906]

f. Scarf: silk, "crossed over the chest" and tucked into the neckline. "Its corners are fastened with pins at the sides and back" [Dahl, 1906]. Per Petersen (1903), "a multicolored silk scarf was worn around the neck, the basic color of which matched the formak jacket. It lay in folds around the neck. Its short tail hung down the back, while the two longer ones in front were loosely laid over each other and tucked in at the formak. A white cloth was worn underneath to protect it from dirt."

g. Ribbon: a silk ribbon with a large bow is tied between the top two hooks on the jacket. Per Petersen (1903), "the neckcloth and a bow, which served to hold the formak jacket together at the top, covered the greater part of the chest."

h. Outer Jacket: In winter, an outer jacket of brown or blackish-green wool was worn. It had silver eyelets on each side, connected by silk ribbons or a silver chain. [Dahl, 1906]

Rømø 9.jpg
Rømø 9b.jpg

Rømø church costume
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 9c.jpg

Rømø church costume
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Kirkedragt.jpg

Rømø Party Costume/festdragt
(originally used as a Church Costume/kirkedragt)
Photo taken 28 May 1985 at National Museum's Kommandørgård (Thadesgård)
Toftum, Rømø
Image credit: Arkiv.dk

Rømø 31.jpg

Rømø church costume, according to Mary-Anna Grundt of Rømø Historical Society
Image credit: Brønshøj Folk Dancers

Festdragt.jpg

Church costume

Dress fabric.jpg

Fest dress fabric closeup
You may occasionally find this fabric for sale at:
http://danskfolkedragtforum.dk/webshop/ws-/--øvrige-metervare

Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 38.jpg

This is a cotton dress made in the style of a church costume. In the 1800s, only silk or wool would have been worn to church.
Image Credit: Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner

Kirkedragt 2.jpg
Rømø 11.jpg

Festive/Church Costume
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 11b.jpg
Rømø 11c.jpg

Reportedly, the costume with the buttons (above) was more formal than the festdragt costumes with metal hooks
Image Credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 34.jpg

Image credit: Brønshøj Folk Dancers

Rømø 37 Venner exhibit most formal.jpg

Reportedly, the costume with the buttons (above) was more formal than the festdragt costumes with metal hooks
Image Credit: Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner

Rømø married woman FC Lund 3rd.jpg

Married woman in party costume, not a church costume. According to Mary-Anna Grundt of the Rømø Historical Society, it is unclear why she posed for F.C. Lund holding a bible in clothing other than a church costume. Perhaps her colorful and festive hat was more what Lund was looking to capture.
from "Danske Nationaldragter," 3rd Ed. (1915)
by F.C. Lund with illustrations by Luplau Janssen

Rømø 39.jpg

The woman on the left appears to be shown wearing a church or party costume over the daily costume

Everyday Work Costume (daglige dragt)

The Rømø everyday costume contains the following elements:

a. Pi: The red skirt and red bodice, both made of scarlet wadmal wool, are sewn together. The combined garment is called a "pi." Occasionally, the bodice would be made of a finer red fabric than the skirt [Dahl, MC, Journal of the Ass'n of Folklore, 1906]. The pleating of the skirt at the rear where it is joined with the bodice is notable for two lumps of pleats.

b. Bodice: The bodice is red, is edged with narrow light green silk ribbons, and is further adorned with large round silver buttons. Arguably, the asymmetrical positioning of these buttons is the costume's most distinctive element. The use of buttons on bodices was common throughout Denmark in the 1600s and early 1700s. Over times, most Danish folk costumes replaced their buttons with hooks or pins (and rarely laces, as in Lolland), while Rømø kept the old tradition of buttons. Per the National Museum's Esther Grølsted, there should be 12 buttons, with only the bottom four buttoned [Thade Petersen, The Costume on Rømø, 1903]. The buttonholes should be green. According to another source, the silver buttons should be on the right side and "usually 6 or 9, rarely 12" and 2cm in diameter. It was fastened with 3 or 4 buttons. [Dahl, 1906].

c. Blouse: A double-breasted, collar-less blouse (ærmer) is worn under the bodice instead of a knitted sweater (nattrøje). The sleeves were fastened at the wrist by two silver buttons smaller than the ones on the bodice. It was made of striped wool or floral calico cotton. For parties, colored silk was used [Dahl, 1906].

d. Scarves: North Frisian-influenced scarves similar to those worn on the nearby island of Fanø. Some scholars write that, unlike Fanø, the head and neck scarves had to be different (Ellen Andersen, Danske Bønders Klædedragt, p.428) while others write that they "do not have to be the same" (Caroline Vester Villumsen). The headscarf was made of cotton while the neckscarf was made of silk or semi-silk (Villumsen). Scarves could be red, green or black and are often striped, checkered or floral. Daily use scarves were made of wool or calico cotton, while silk was used for Sundays. [Dahl, 1906].

     i. Headscarf: Scholar M.C. Dahl's 1906 journal article provides the following detailed description.

          At Home: the headdress (the entire assemblage) consists of two items:

          (a) small cap: covers only the back of the head and the ears, and is held together under the chin with a thin band. Worn together with (b), below, the back of this cap was exposed. Thus, the exposed portion of the cap was often decorated with embroidery or made of brocade.

          (b) forehead piece (pande stykke): dark calico [cotton] or silk is wrapped twice around the head from dop to back and tied at the top. This cloth completely covers the hair and ears, and presses them flat against the head.

          Outside the Home: one of two possible items was worn on top of the "at home" headdress:

          (c) headscarf: triangularly folded, made of either cotton or a silk blend (silk on Sundays). The headscarf is folded to form a wide band with pointed ends. Placed in the middle of the forehead, it was brought behind the neck and then back to the front where it was tied with a double knot. It could be tied so that the hair was visible or instead hidden.

               Colors:

               (i) red-and-blue

               (ii) red-and-white, or

               (iii) light blue-and-dark blue checkered (for mourning)

          (d) flagerhat (or its waxed version, the skog): For working in the fields, homemade hat of cotton-covered cardboard, shaped like a horizontal cylinder. It was slightly wider at the front and had an extension at the back. The skog was for use in rain.

     ii. Neckscarf: The neckscarf was folded into a triangle, then "wound twice around the neck from behind, with the corners tied at the nape of the neck and one triangle of the scarf pinned to the back." [Dahl, 1906].

e. Apron with silver hooks: A variety of apron patterns can be worn (striped or checked). It was made of wool or cotton twill, and the base color was brown or blue. The apron was wide and covered both the front and sides of the skirt. The silver hooks in the rear are characteristic of Rømø. It has two soldered "silver buttons" on the back, which fit into a buttonhole on each side of the apron waistband (essentially, each piece of metal buttons onto the apron waistband).

f. Fick: Optional. A loose pocket tied around the waist and hidden under the apron. Similar to a Swedish or Norwegian veska.

g. Shirt: Underneath the "pi" was a long cotton shirt.

h. Underskirt: Underneath the 'pi,' a 2nd skirt (green) could be worn in cold weather.

i. Stockings: Long stockings were held up with garters.

j. Outerwear: Jacket (formak) of dark green wool.

k. Mourning: In mourning, a dark blue skirt is worn over the "pi," with the red waistline remaining exposed. The apron, blouse and headscarf are then dark blue with light blue stripes. At funerals, the women who had been closest to the deceased wore a mourning cloak. It was a skirt of black wool with many small pleats, and was pulled over their heads.

Rømø 10a.jpg

Everyday Work Costume
Although the image above is a professionally taken photo, the rounded shape of the red "bodice" (understand that it's a bodice sewn together with the underlying skirt) is reportedly incorrect and should be more v-shaped, like the image below.
Image Credit: "Danske Folke Dragter" by Nanna Gandil, 1972

Rømø 1.JPG
Rømø 2.JPG

Everyday Costume
Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 7b.jpg

Everyday Costume 1900-1910
from "Folkedragter i Danmark" by Ellen Andersen, 1952

Rømø 3.jpg
Rømø 4.jpg
Rømø 6.JPG

Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 2a.JPG
Rømø 5a.JPG

A Rømø woman could either wear her hair covered or exposed. On Fanø, the hair is covered.

Rømø 27.jpg

Rømø Costume Friends Club (Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner) giving a wonderful costume presentation for the benefit of an eager audience of 150 people
Klægager, Bredebro, Jutland, 16 July 2025

Rømø 30.jpg

A hallmark of the Rømø Costume is the two lumps of pleats at the rear. According to Mary-Anna Grundt of the historical society, not every pi has these pleat lumps, but every pi should have them. The reason they are frequently omitted is that it is difficult to create them and requires additional fabric. Most costumes are made for folk dancers who perhaps do not have a sufficient understanding of or appreciation for the historical significance of this truly unique quirk of the everyday work costume.

But why are these pleat lumps there?
Until the Victorian era began around 1840, it was desirable for reputable ladies to wear undergarments that would enlarge their backsides. The pleat lumps allowed for the significant amounts of fabric required to be added to the rear of the pi [Mary-Anna Grundt].

Rømø 29.jpg
Rømø 28.jpg
Rømø 26.jpg
Rømø 8.jpg
Rømø 12.jpg

Handpainted photograph, 1868
Image credit: Hansen, Schou & Weller

Rømø 13.jpg

Image credit: Rømø Costume Friends Club (Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner)

Rømø 22.jpg

Outing at Tønnisgård, Rømø
18 April 2025
Image Credit: Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner

Rømø 23.jpg

Outing at Tønnisgård, Rømø
18 April 2025
Image Credit: Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner

Rømø 14.jpg

Queen Margrethe, 1996

Rømø 17.jpg
Rømø 18.jpg
Romo.jpg

Image Credit: Mikael Bjerregaard

Double-Breasted Jacket with "Pipes"
(dobbeltradet trøje med piber)

This was an everyday costume, but not for work. It is made entirely of cotton and was worn over the everyday work costume {Mary-Anna Grundt]. According to Dansk Folkedragtforum's "Photo Series for Rømødragt (1800-1860)," this costume consists of:

a. Jacket (trøjer): a double-breasted cotton jacket known as a "formak" with black (not silver) buttons. It is very similar to the double-breasted blouse worn underneath the "pi" as part of the Everyday Costume, but with a twist. The back of the jacket has three stiffly pleated "pipes" (see images below) that show off the fine white lining inside them. The presence of these "pipes" indicates that the jacket is to be worn outside the "pi," not underneath it.

b. Skirt: On the model below, the skirt and jacket are the same small-patterned cotton fabric. However, a wool skirt in red, green or blue could also be worn.

c. Apron: optional

d. Headgear: Note that on the model below, her hair is exposed. However, the headcloth can also be tied so as to cover the hair. In Rømø-speak, this is referred to as the open or closed set-up, and the scarves are referred to as "cloths." Typically on Rømø, the headscarf does not match the neckscarf. Alternatively, a hat of "linen and straw" can also be worn.

Rømø 24.jpg
Rømø 25.jpg

Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Rømø 25b.jpg
Rømø 24b.jpg

Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Widow's Costume (enkedragt)

Widow's Dress.jpg

Rømø Widow's Costume
Reportedly, this was worn everyday after a husband's death. It was not inherited but was destroyed, with the silver being passed down [Mary-Anna Grundt].
(in earlier times, it also served as a Church Costume/kirkedragt)
Photo taken 28 May 1985 at National Museum's Kommandørgård (Thadesgård)
Toftum, Rømø
Image credit: Arkiv.dk

Young girls wore blue skirts for funerals; for everyone else the suit was black (Ellen Andersen, Danske Bønders Klædedragt, p. 421). Per Thade Petersen's "The Costume on Rømø", 1903, "the mourning dress is worn like the church dress over a pi," but it was darker in color, usually dark blue rather than black. A dark blue apron, a dark headcloth and a black-and-white neckerchief were worn. A funerals, a so-called "kyse" was worn on the head. It was made of thick cardboard and covered with black silk or velvet.

Rømø Men's Ship Captain Costume

"It is no longer known whether the men of [Rømø] possessed a special costume. They probably dressed like the sailors of the neighboring islands. A hundred years ago, they wore a short blue jacket with light-colored metal buttons, like the sailors of the German Navy, along with breeches, stockings, and shoes, and a triangular hat on their heads. Silver clasps were attached to the knees and shoes." [M.C. Dahl, Journal of the Association for Folklore in Berlin, 1906]

"The men of Rømø have not worn any...costume in living memory." [Thade Petersen, The Costume on Rømø, 1903]

Men on Rømø typically did not wear red knit caps [Mary-Anna Grundt].

Blue-and-Purple Vest

According to Mary-Anna Grundt of the Rømø Historical Society, the blue-and-purple vest pictured below is a recreation of an actual garment that exists in the collection of the Danish National Museum. Searches for images of this garment on https://samlinger.slks.dk have not yet confirmed the existence of this garment as not everything in their collection has been photographed and displayed online.

About 90% of men from Rømø worked at sea, and they had daily work clothes aboard the ship, along with a fine silk vest and top hat to be worn in port. The island was wealthy between 1700-1850 due to trade at sea, particularly with Siam (now Thailand). In addition, many men worked as whalers near Greenland and Iceland.

Mens Rømø 5.jpg

Outing at Tønnisgård, Rømø
18 April 2025
Image Credit: Foreningen Rømødragtens Venner

Rømø 35.jpg
Rømø 33.jpg
Rømø 33a.jpg

Image credit: Brønshøj Folk Dancers

Vest.jpg

Men's silk vest fabric closeup
You may occasionally find this fabric for sale at:
https://danskfolkedragtforum.dk/webshop/ws-/silke

Image credit: Folkedragt.dk

Mens Rømø 2.jpg
Mens Rømø.jpg
Mens Rømø 6.jpg

A 1991 photograph which may show a historical Rømø vest taken from a museum.
According to Mary-Anna Grundt of the historical society, men typically did not wear red knit caps. Thus, this fashion pictured above may have been from Hamburg.
Image Credit: Folkedragt.dk

bottom of page